 | The CaucasusThe Caucasus usually refer to the three countries of Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan, which I visited in April 2019. All three were former republics in the old USSR. The Caucasus also refer to the mountain range at the northern borders of Georgia and Azerbaijan, which also extend into Russia. Georgia |
and Armenia have a rich Orthodox Christian history, so they are filled with old monasteries and churches, some dating to the 4th Century. Azerbaijan, on the other hand, is almost completely Muslim.
After landing in Tbilisi, Georgia, I took trains east to Baku, Azerbaijan and south to Yeravan, Armenia. Then I generally took day tours, usually by taxi, to outlying areas. My favorite trip was to the border with Russia, high into the Caucasus Mountains
After landing in Tbilisi, Georgia, I took trains east to Baku, Azerbaijan and south to Yeravan, Armenia. Then I generally took day tours, usually by taxi, to outlying areas. My favorite trip was to the border with Russia, high into the Caucasus Mountains
Georgia
Georgia, with 27,000 square miles, is about half the size of Wisconsin, and it has nearly the same population. However, much of it is mountainous or hilly, so its actual population density is higher than Wisconsin's. Its most famous "native son" was Josef Stalin. Though castigated throughout the world (who wouldn't despise a man who said, "A single death is a tragedy. A million deaths is a statistic."), Stalin is still revered by many in Georgia.
Georgia, with 27,000 square miles, is about half the size of Wisconsin, and it has nearly the same population. However, much of it is mountainous or hilly, so its actual population density is higher than Wisconsin's. Its most famous "native son" was Josef Stalin. Though castigated throughout the world (who wouldn't despise a man who said, "A single death is a tragedy. A million deaths is a statistic."), Stalin is still revered by many in Georgia.
Gergeti Trinity Church, near the Russian border, in the Caucasus Mountains.
Boyhood home of Stalin. No lawn to urinate on, as planned, and I couldn't firebomb the house, either, being ensconced in a shelter.
Caucasus Mountains
Tsminda Sameba, or Holy Trinity Cathedral, in Tbilisi, ca. 2004
 Gremi Monastery, ca. 16th Century |
A shaped olive tree
 Local women holding boxwood branches, a tradition on Easter Sunday, which this was |  Ikalto Monastery, ca. 8th & 9th Centuries |
Armenia
Tiny Armenia, a bit over a quarter the size of Wisconsin, packed a lot of punch in history for its size. It has three million people, but would have had more, as Turks killed over a million Armenians early in the 1900s. To this day, Turkey denies that happened--notwithstanding overwhelming evidence. Many fled to avoid death, some to the United States. Almost all Americans with a surname ending "ian" have Armenian heritage--including Cher (Sarkisian). Though loaded with beautiful old monasteries and churches, my favorite sight there was the incredible view of Mt. Ararat, actually just across the border in Turkey.
Tiny Armenia, a bit over a quarter the size of Wisconsin, packed a lot of punch in history for its size. It has three million people, but would have had more, as Turks killed over a million Armenians early in the 1900s. To this day, Turkey denies that happened--notwithstanding overwhelming evidence. Many fled to avoid death, some to the United States. Almost all Americans with a surname ending "ian" have Armenian heritage--including Cher (Sarkisian). Though loaded with beautiful old monasteries and churches, my favorite sight there was the incredible view of Mt. Ararat, actually just across the border in Turkey.
Mt. Ararat, at 16,946 feet high, is where Noah's ark landed (hidden in this view under the morning clouds--but I actually saw it when the skies cleared)
 Noravank Monastery, ca. 13th Century |
Precarious steps which I refused to climb
Zvartnots Temple ruins, ca. 7th Century, with Mt. Ararat behind (note the ark near the top left)
 A new church and religious center near the capital of Yeravan |
 Tiny Astvatsatsin Church, ca. 12th Century, which "miraculously" survived a 17th Century earthquake, backed up by new (2011-2013) St. Ana Church |
Street in Old Yeravan, one of the few old medieval sections of the town remaining
Azerbaijan
Because of its odd name, I have always been intrigued by Azerbaijan--so, of course, I had to visit it. It did not disappoint. It has lots of oil. REALLY lots of it, and it shows in the enormous amount of fanciful new construction. And the best is yet to come, a just-begun complex of many buildings just outside the capital, Baku, one of which will be the tallest building in the world--at nearly 4,000 feet high. For its sake, oil prices better not collapse.
Azerbaijan is a bit more than half the size of Wisconsin, and it has 10 million people, 97% of who are Muslim.
Because of its odd name, I have always been intrigued by Azerbaijan--so, of course, I had to visit it. It did not disappoint. It has lots of oil. REALLY lots of it, and it shows in the enormous amount of fanciful new construction. And the best is yet to come, a just-begun complex of many buildings just outside the capital, Baku, one of which will be the tallest building in the world--at nearly 4,000 feet high. For its sake, oil prices better not collapse.
Azerbaijan is a bit more than half the size of Wisconsin, and it has 10 million people, 97% of who are Muslim.
 Maiden Tower, ca. 12th Century |  The building made of five sections actually has each section capable of rotating independently of the others--pretty unique, even for Baku |
One of many such unusual buildings in Baku
 The new cultural center in Baku |
 The Heydar Aliyev Conference Center and Museum in Baku |
The Rack in a museum of medieval torture devices in the old Baku palace
The Interrogation Chair (Ouch!!!!)
Yanar Dag, only one of four places in the world where escaping natural gas burns continuously (I saw one of the others in Turkey)
Nearby the open flames are many mud pots with large bubbles caused by escaping gases
Epilogue
Do you want to visit the "Old Country," seeing lots of neat old buildings with tons of history--but don't wish to spend a fortune on a riverboat cruise on the Rhine or Danube (and being exposed to the insufferable snoots and/or jerks you are bound to endure for an agonizing week or two)? Then go to the Caucasus, take local buses, trains, and taxis and private cars--and save tons of money and have more fun. Of course, it might be a bit more precarious, but, hey, as George Carlin often said, "Live a little and take a XXXXing chance!"
Do you want to visit the "Old Country," seeing lots of neat old buildings with tons of history--but don't wish to spend a fortune on a riverboat cruise on the Rhine or Danube (and being exposed to the insufferable snoots and/or jerks you are bound to endure for an agonizing week or two)? Then go to the Caucasus, take local buses, trains, and taxis and private cars--and save tons of money and have more fun. Of course, it might be a bit more precarious, but, hey, as George Carlin often said, "Live a little and take a XXXXing chance!"
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